Marie CourtoisHowever, it was not until the impetus of designers such as Gabrielle Chanel that the cultured pearl was associated with elegance. It is difficult to imagine the fashion icon without her countless pearl necklaces that she loved to wear as a sautoir. Just like Coco, many celebrities have adopted it for its sophisticated look. While Marilyn Monroe almost always wears it on the red carpet, in the cinema, Audrey Hepburn adopted it in the famous “Breakfast at Tiffany’s”. Several decades later, it was Carrie Bradshaw’s character, in the hit series “Sex and The City”, who wore it as a sautoir.
HOW DID PEARLS BECOME TRENDY AGAIN?
While pearl beads have spanned the ages, their reputation as a bourgeois accessory often makes them an accessory neglected by fashionistas. However, in recent seasons, fashion houses and brands seem to have made it their mission to rehabilitate them. For spring-summer 2024, they are making their mark on the laces of pumps at Dior, make up a top at Dsquared2 and replace the handle of a bag at Simone Rocha. They are even already making their mark in the fall-winter 2024-2025 collections. They hang proudly from the ears at Carolina Herrera, are worn around the neck at Chanel, are clawed along a dress at Sacaï and replace the buttons of a cardigan at Louis Vuitton Homme.
On the jewelry side, the big jewelers have never completely forgotten it. Tiffany & Co. interweaves freshwater pearls and signature links on an 18-carat yellow gold bracelet, Mikimoto affixes a black cultured pearl on a rhodium mono earring and Tasaki places an immaculate pearl on a yellow gold pendant paved with diamonds. Designers and young labels, too, the art of the pearl. We think of Sophie Bille Brahe, Delfina Delettrez or even JEM and its 100% traceable Fiji pearls. Costume jewelry brands offer ultra-desirable imitations, like Astrid & Miyu, Agatha or Gisel B.
HOW TO WEAR PEARL JEWELRY?
Long considered old-fashioned, pearls are gradually making a comeback in our jewelry boxes. For a few weeks now, we have been unable to resist the charms of these immaculate treasures that subtly gentrify our outfits with pearly beads. Around the wrist, they stand out as a single pearl for a minimalist look or on the entire surface of a bracelet or bangle for a characterful look. Around the neck, pearls accumulate around a choker for a very trendy nineties look or are delicately placed on a necklace. In these cases, we do not hesitate to mix them with pieces in different styles to break up their overly prim appearance. And when they fully invest a ring, earrings or a barrette, we break up their retro-chic side with contrasting pieces like a leather skirt, flared jeans or a t-shirt with the image of a rock band. To adopt pearl jewelry without making a mistake, zoom in on the models that caught our attention.
Benjamin Wallace-Wells
Joy Montgomery
Calin Van Paris
Christopher Luu