Madeline Fass|
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One striking element dominated the winter Saint Laurent collection – huge, exaggerated shoulders. For his latest collection, creative director Anthony Vaccarello focused on the power of the silhouette. Models walked the large oval onyx catwalk, wearing different variations of pieces with oversized straps. From ’80s power-suit dresses in bright colors, over oversized coats, all the way to statement leather jackets – everything was about imposing shapes.
As they noted in the show’s notes, Vaccarello explored the power of cut and construction:
“Fabrics and precise craftsmanship shape the garments. Pure forms and volume came from the construction and cut itself.”
To further emphasize these shapes, the designer reached for striking shades of recognizable YSL colors. Imagine an orange jacket with a plum belt or the same silhouette in intense fuchsia. The off-the-shoulder, bright green mini dress featured an embellished collar (and pockets!) and was styled with black leather gloves. Minimalism? Not this time.
In addition to the eighties as the main inspiration, Vaccarello also explored unusual fabrics. Animal print and floral dresses were coated in silicone, while guipure lace creations in shades of muted orange and navy exuded subtle luxury – just like the one Bella Hadid wore on the runway. Her appearance caused a stir, as it was the only show she walked in this season.
Many combinations were completed with dark glasses and massive jewelry, while special
emphasis was placed on rock crystal crystals, which Yves Saint Laurent himself considered his lucky stone.
Sophie Rosemont
Amandine Lhoste
Calin Van Paris