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Neubauer Artists LLC
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Matthieu Blazy presented a spring/summer 2027 collection for Chanel that does not try to escape from the rich past of the fashion house, but looks at it from a new angle. Under the light of a flock of birds, the historical codes of Chanel took on a contemporary, playful and unexpectedly light character.
The fashion show was opened by an almost transparent white dress model, decorated with an effective detail in the form of a feathered rosette on the chest, with which the model carried the famous Gabrielle Chanel 2.55 bag. The choice of white instead of the traditional black immediately indicated Blazy’s intention: not to change the familiar elements of the house from the roots, but to find something new in them.
The collection is conceived as a sort of timeline, but not as a literal reconstruction of Chanel history. Blazy has combined different periods, silhouettes and motifs into a wardrobe that seems to belong to the present moment. Fashion is presented here as a personal collage – a place where the thirties, fifties, nineties and contemporary trends can meet.
Dropped waist skirts, made of boucle, wool and bright knitted materials, attracted special attention. They brought to mind one of the signature silhouettes once popularized by Gabrielle Chanel, while Blazy’s contemporary details – evening out tops, tank tops and richly embroidered jackets – made them completely current.
Numerous other symbols of Chanel’s heritage also appeared in the collection. There were costumes with unexpected combinations of prints, harlequin collars in blue and orange tones, tulle ball gowns with corset elements, as well as different interpretations of the famous two-tone shoes with a contrasting tip.
Blazy didn’t just stop at clothes. The entire space of the Grand Palais became part of the story. A flock of illuminated swallows and swallows floated above the audience, inspired by the migratory birds the designer observes in Calabria. For him, the birds symbolized the journey that Gabrielle Chanel took from her beginnings to create one of the most influential fashion brands in the world.
The idea of freedom was one of the key themes of the collection. Chanel’s history in Blazy’s interpretation is no longer a heavy burden to be kept under a glass bell. On the contrary, it becomes a material that can be experimented with.
This is especially evident in models that combine the sophistication of Chanel costumes with the sensuality and simplicity of contemporary clothing. Jackets were worn directly against the skin, along with pleated mini-skirts and softer tweed, while the classic suit took on a more relaxed attitude. The idea is simple: a Chanel suit can be worn almost like an ordinary T-shirt — without fear of the formality it once implied.
One of the striking moments was a series of models inspired by the changes in the sky, from the first light of the morning to the night. The show culminated with the appearance of Anok Yai in a dress with a constellation motif, bringing the story of travel, freedom and change to an almost poetic conclusion.
Blazy’s Chanel thus does not feel like an attempt to repeat the past. Instead, the designer shows that what was once iconic can become relevant again when viewed from a different perspective.
His message is perhaps best summed up in the idea that even old Chanel can look new again – depending on how we wear it.
And that’s exactly what makes this collection interesting. Chanel Spring/Summer 2027 simultaneously honors the legacy of Gabrielle Chanel and gives it space to breathe, change and belong to a new generation.
