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Louis Vuitton’s Cruise 2027 show stormed the iconic museum-mansion on the Upper East Side with stunning looks, featuring pop touches and decidedly artistic references.
It had been seven years since Nicolas Ghesquière had last set foot in New York. Five years since the Frick Collection had opened its doors, having undergone extensive renovations. Concluding a triptych of American Cruise shows—begun by
Jonathan Anderson and Dior in Los Angeles and continued by Demna and Gucci in Times Square —the Louis Vuitton artistic director treated himself to a reunion against the backdrop of the reopening of an exceptional cultural institution . A true game of mirrors: a temple of the great European masters, assembled by an American collector, now hosts a French fashion house steeped in American culture. All that remains for Nicolas Ghesquière, who has the knack for it, is to shake things up.
Louis Vuitton Cruise 2027: Paris-New York
With great purpose, it all begins with a denim silhouette: the fabric from the South of France, which became the ultimate reference thanks to its association with the West Coast gold rush. Then comes leather, subtly worked with cowboy-inspired studded cutouts, but also tucked into the wide shoulders of 80s track jackets. Satin boxer shorts, a silhouette featuring an officer’s jacket and vermilion baggy Bermuda shorts accessorized with a vinyl record (that Michael Jackson himself wouldn’t have disowned)… The popular culture that the world envies America for infuses the runway.
In its noblest expression, this heritage is inscribed in the history of Louis Vuitton. The artistic director is quick to remind us of this by recounting a unique story: that of a 1930s leather trunk that served as a canvas for the American artist Keith Haring. That was all it took for his vibrant pictograms to adorn dresses, tops, and jackets, playing out the rematch of this encounter between two worlds.
With sneakers on their feet and the hustle and bustle of Manhattan in their blood, the trunk maker reconnects with New York energy. Hair is bleached, streaked with pink, blue, and purple, in a look reminiscent of figure skater Alysa Liu, named brand ambassador a few weeks ago. Neon hues diffuse a stimulating vibrancy in outfits with patchworks of materials and colors as creatively uninhibited as the Big Apple itself. The cruise is a blast. At the forefront, Zendaya, Chase Infiniti, and Cate Blanchett were there to endorse this joyful stopover.
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