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080 Barcelona Fashion returned this past weekend for its 34th edition and we were on hand to catch all the hottest shows. So, if your front row ticket got lost in the post, then fear not – we’ve brought together all the best moments from this season’s shows. Scroll down for the top six collections of 080 Barcelona Fashion SS25.
CARLOTA BARRERA
First up was Carlota Barrera with her SS25 offering Traces. As a brand that questions transitional menswear through a feminine gaze, this season Barrera was focusing on “the tension between opposites: restraint and unleashing, male and female, structure and fluidity”. On the catwalk, this led to a collection of contrasts, as liquid-like suit trousers were paired with crumpled-up shirts, polo tops were wrapped with constricting, sheer vests, and monochromatic black and white garments often came paired together.
Extension
Elsewhere, amulet accessories swung from necks, dip-dyed hems were frayed and worn, while skew-whiff shirts were buttoned up in the wrong holes. “Each garment explores balance between tension and release,” said the designer in show notes.
DOMINNICO
Arguably one of the buzziest labels on the schedule, Dominnico has dressed the likes of Beyoncé, Dua Lipa and Rosalía in the past, so we were expecting big things from the Spanish designer. For Domingo Rodríguez Lázar, SS25 was all about refining the Dominnico codes, revisiting classic silhouettes and going over them with a fine-tooth comb. The club kid aesthetic was there in full swing, with skimpy skirts, fur trappers, shell suits, corsetry, and BDSM-coded latex all appearing on the runway.
BU
As with previous collections, the Y2K and sporting references came through as well, with Himbo jocks and Paris Hilton purses cropping up on the catwalk, too. A standout, though, were the checked miniskirts and shrunken sweaters in fuzzy, woollen material – preppy classics given their own Dominnico twist.
LEMĀCHET
On the other end of the spectrum to Dominnico was Lucía Sánchez’s menswear brand, Lemāchet. The designer’s SS25 show, called Re-arrange, was proposed as a “poetic journey towards a new masculinity, while reimagining the essence of modern men”. The first model appeared on the catwalk as a picture of innocence: dusty pink shorts swung just above his knee, a matching double-breasted blazer was sprayed with flowers akin to a child’s drawing, while he also held up a little sack bag, sweetly clasped to his chest.
Loyola
From there, a fresh palette of pastels continued to appear on flowing, androgynous garments, with checked kilts, cut-out blouses and teeny shorts all appearing on the runway. Elsewhere, felt lily heads sprouted from necks and arms and shoulders, the finishing touches of a collection in full bloom.
HABEY CLUB
Do you ever worry that you’ve become too obsessed with your work? Well, so do David Salvador and Javier Zunzunegui, founders of cult Madrid label Habey Club. For SS25, the pair created Obsessed, a collection that muses on culture’s preoccupation with our working lives, and how they can often bleed into our free time. On the catwalk, this was translated by merging together signifiers of work and leisure, like flowing beach clothes with office blazers on top, or a full-body swimsuit under a camel trench coat.
High School Club Group
At times you could clearly see which side was winning: button down shirts appeared to constrict going out fits, while draped gowns were held in place by golden pens. And if all that wasn’t enough, the audience heard the final look before they saw it appear: a jangling, fringed gown made entirely from metal paper clips. Now back to work!
REPARTO
Reparto might be appearing on the 080 calendar for the first time, but one look at its Instagram and you can see that it’s already kitted out the likes of Troye Sivan, Nathy Peluso and Bb trickz, to name a few. So, how does a brand that already has tonnes of hype make its debut on the official Barcelona schedule? With a meta-commentary on the fashion industry of course!
Metropolis
“Reality Show, is inspired by harsh reality, attempts to adapt to the industry by conveying the consequences of getting a brand off the ground,” read the show notes for Margil Peña and Ana Viglione’s SS25 collection. To hammer that point home, the opening model appeared in a ‘FASHION VICTIM’ slogan tee while carrying rubbish bags filled with clothes, referencing the age-old problem of waste within the fashion industry. From there, more eclectic, mish-mash clothes appeared, with dresses made from curtains, lace hems ripped and frayed, and an entire coat covered in opalescent buttons.
PAOLO LEDUC
If there’s one thing about Paolo Leduc, it’s that he absolutely knows his customer. A brand built entirely on rock and roll aesthetics, Leduc seemed to triple down on that this season, with an added dose of slouchy streetwear and star-spangled Americana to boot. For SS25, a cast of sharp-jawed, sunken-eyed rebels appeared on the runway, in tatty jumpers, bleached flannel and worn-in military jackets.
Westchester
The Stars and Stripes were a continuing motif, appearing as sarongs wrapped round models’ waists, splashed across a white hoodie in grey scale, and printed in negative on a pair of camouflage slacks. While a lot of the clothing came smeared in rusty stains, a standout was the denim and tailoring, both expertly crafted and made to last for generations to come.
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