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People say that every generation feels like they’re the first ones to experience life’s trials and tribulations, and while there may be a small grain of truth in this, this attitude (which is so often aimed at Millennials and Gen Zs) has arguably become an easy way to dismiss the genuine issues facing young people today. But, in the world of fashion, even the most hardened cynic would find it hard to argue with the fact that being an emerging designer in 2024 is the toughest it’s been in years.
“In its heyday [Matches] played a vital role in nurturing emerging designers such as Grace Wales Bonner and Steven Stokey-Daley, so if it disappears entirely, it will leave a large hole in London’s luxury landscape,” explains Kirsty McGregor, executive European editor at Vogue Business. “The immediate question for many of its brands is whether they can retrieve stock that’s sitting in the warehouse. Sadly, it seems likely that some smaller brands, for whom Matches was the main source of income, will fold.”
The outlook might seem bleak, but change is afoot. London continues to be a hotbed of young design talent, with initiatives such as Fashion East, the BFC/Vogue Fashion Fund and the BFC’s NEWGEN programme ensuring that up-and-coming brands get the financial support, mentorship and visibility they need to thrive against the current headwinds.
“Emerging designers are now creating inherently sustainable, circular and ethical brands from the ground up by adopting eco-conscious materials and increasing transparency of the supply chain,” explains Caroline Rush, managing director of the British Fashion Council. “They have the ability to create a new and exciting fashion landscape, yet are often faced with challenging barriers to the industry, from education costs to a lack of brand funding and mentorship. It is important that we open up the playing field by alleviating some of these obstacles and cultivating an inclusive and supportive industry.”
We’ve also seen the proliferation of both concept stores and hype-worthy brand collaborations – think Martine Rose X Clarks, Stefan Cooke X Mulberry and Wales Bonner X Adidas – which offer labels a chance to reach a new, global audience. It is, of course, a mutually beneficial set up, as the established platforms are able to enjoy the reflected glory that comes with partnering with a buzzy new name. “LN-CC has just reopened its iconic London store, and Italian retailer Modes will unveil its first-ever UK boutique later this year,” McGregor continues. “I think we’ll see brands spread their bets more carefully going forward, seeking supportive multi-brand retail partners that offer customers a unique experience, while at the same time developing their own direct retail channels.”
Here at British Vogue, not only are ardent supporters of emerging fashion talent, but, to put it quite simply, we also genuinely want to wear the clothing that these designers are creating. From Chopova Lowena’s carabiner pleated skirts and Masha Popova’s Y2K styling, to Feben’s sculptural fabrications, if you want to break away from the algorithm and enter new and exciting sartorial territory, these are the names you need to know.
Below, we asked seven Vogue staffers to showcase the designs of seven young designers that are making moves in the industry right now. Scroll down to see and shop our line-up.
Chopova Lowena
“I’ve been obsessed with Chopova Lowena ever since their carabiner clip kilts jangled onto the London fashion scene. The joy of Laura Lowena-Irons and Emma Chopova’s eclectic approach, which fuses sportwear tropes like ice hockey with Bulgarian folkloric motifs, lies in their imaginative attention to detail. This transparent tartan top features not just a smiling sun hardware detail at the décolleté, but flocked mouse faces that are cute, kitsch and cool all at once.” – Laura Hawkins, acting European associate fashion features director
Masha Popova
“I’ve always been a fan of Masha’s work, ever since she popped onto the scene – she has the perfect mix of Y2K fashion, but with a timeless feel. I love how she plays with bold prints and reworked denim, especially her jeans, which are super flattering. My favourite piece has to be the orange trench coat from her autumn/winter 2024 show.” – Lois Adeoshun, fashion assistant
Derrick
“When it comes to adding pieces to my wardrobe, I’ve always been drawn towards menswear. Of course, brands are increasingly challenging the traditional boundaries of “men’s” and “women’s” clothing, however there’s something about the cool yet wearable designs of Stefan Cooke, Martine Rose and SS Daley that sets my heart racing. But for 2024? I want to tell you about Derrick, the London-based brand set up by CSM grad, Luke Derrick. Having trained at the likes of Alexander McQueen and Savile Row, you can expect immaculately-tailored blazers and trousers, with a side order of dandy-with-a-modern-twist silken scarves. I’m obsessed.” – Joy Montgomery, commerce editor
“There are so many young designers I’m excited about, so it’s hard to pick just one, particularly when it comes to those championing sustainability. But I love Paolina Russo’s approach to craft, from crocheting to natural dyeing, along with its use of eco-conscious materials. Best of all? The London-based brand’s sports-infused knitwear is flattering for all shapes and sizes.” – Emily Chan, senior sustainability and features editor
Feben
“I love all of Feben’s work (her intricate beaded creations, in particular, are works of art) but I have been especially drawn to the designer’s sculptural, ruched dresses, that are made using her signature twisted silk technique. This black Twist dress from her spring/summer 2024 show – which starred none other than Debra Shaw, who wore a long-sleeved version on the runway – is both flattering and directional.” – Alice Cary, commerce writer.
“I love all of Feben’s work (her intricate beaded creations, in particular, are works of art) but I have been especially drawn to the designer’s sculptural, ruched dresses, that are made using her signature twisted silk technique. This black Twist dress from her spring/summer 2024 show – which starred none other than Debra Shaw, who wore a long-sleeved version on the runway – is both flattering and directional.” – Alice Cary, commerce writer.
“Skovgaard’s collections are easily recognisable, with their bubbled silhouettes and historical references, but there is also a focus on the wearer and what they represent as individual characters. This collection was about dressing for everyday life and how pieces can be layered and re-interpreted. I am wearing look 16 from the collection; a wool asymmetric off-the-shoulder top, which references ’80s workout gear – a nod to his mother’s early career as an aerobic instructor in 1980s London – and a black skirt with a padded ring that gives the illusion of a drop waist.” – Charlotte Rutter, fashion assistant
Stefan Cooke
“What’s not to love about Stefan Cooke’s heritage designs which combine innovative techniques with intricate textile manipulation? Instantly identifiable by its iconic slash knitwear staples, the brand’s latest outerwear offering embodies the finest qualities of British craftsmanship. This belted waxed coat, featuring press button closure and a subtly carved silhouette, became a staple during fashion month.” – Laura Ingham deputy director, global fashion network
Original article posted on Vogue
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