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Neubauer Artists LLC
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If there’s one color that can sum up the new Saint Laurent collection, it’s without a doubt: gold. For Spring/Summer 2027, Anthony Vaccarello dedicated an entire show to one of Yves Saint Laurent’s favorite tones and made it the main character of the evening.
The glow from the runway was almost surreal. In an environment lit by lavish, oversized chandeliers, with the Eiffel Tower in the background, Saint Laurent presented a collection that veered between eighties decadence and contemporary glamour. Imagine the aesthetic of Joan Collins from the Dynasty era, but freed from nostalgia and adapted to today’s moment.

Safari cuts, accentuated shoulders, voluminous sleeves and aviator jackets were given a metallic finish, while large gold buttons, wide belts and pronounced collars further emphasized opulence. Hailey Bieber, Zoë Kravitz, Post Malone and Rosé were in the front row, while Donatella Versace and Pierpaolo Piccioli supported Vaccarello’s show.

The palette was anything but uniform. From almost pure 24-carat gold to deep, patinated hues reminiscent of vintage jewelry, Vaccarello explored the full spectrum of this color. Large organdy dresses, velvet coats and jackets decorated with massive buttons, as well as transparent bows, evoked the spirit of the eighties, a decade to which the designer often returns through the house’s archives.

It was the legacy of Yves Saint Laurent that was one of the key points of the collection. “I love gold; it’s a magical color. When it reflects a woman, it’s the color of the sun,” said the founder of the house, and Vaccarello turned this thought into an entire fashion story.

However, what makes the collection particularly interesting is not only the color, but the way it was used. The designer reshaped the same idea again and again through dresses, jackets, coats and sets, giving it a different character each time. Monotony was prevented by sumptuous textures: lamé and latex acquired an almost jewel-like shine, while guipure lace and brocade, wrapped in golden tones, seemed even more complex and rich.

The aesthetics of maximalism were additionally built by pleated materials, wide jackets worn open, massive earrings reminiscent of chandeliers and jeweled turbans. Everything was theatrical, but without losing the characteristic Saint Laurent edge.
This show also had additional symbolism. Vaccarello marks ten years at the helm of the house, during which Saint Laurent has built around his signature sensibility while remaining deeply connected to the legacy of Yves Saint Laurent.

His Saint Laurent world still rests on strong shoulders, evening silhouettes and a touch of provocative glamour. For Spring/Summer 2027, he added just one more thing to all of that — a golden glow that, quite expectedly, was impossible to ignore.
