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Delphine Arnault: Hardly. Nowadays, you need not only great creativity, but also entrepreneurial spirit and a lot of courage to launch your own brand. Most start in the studios of major fashion houses. For example, among our eleven finalists is Simone Rocha, who initially worked at Marc Jacobs.
You “support the fight for better representation of women in leadership positions,” but there are more male than female designers in the group.
Indeed, on the jury, there were three of us women: Carol Lim, Phoebe Philo, and myself. There are few female designers, and those who are are very talented; they know exactly what a working woman with children wants to wear. We awarded a special jury prize to Tina and Nikita Sutradhar, two Indian sisters who created the Miuniku brand.
Does talent come from abroad?
But Nicolas Ghesquière is French. What’s important is talent. And talent has no nationality. In a large company, there needs to be diversity. At Vuitton, we have English, Italians, Japanese—the mix of cultures is interesting. We’re in a global company. Which doesn’t mean that Paris can’t remain the capital of fashion, regardless of the nationality of its designers.
Is there a link between art and fashion?
At Louis Vuitton, the link is very strong. Marc Jacobs initiated collaborations between Louis Vuitton and major artists such as Yayoi Kusama, Richard Prince, Stephen Sprouse, and Takashi Murakami. These collaborations have had a profound impact on our house, both in France and abroad. Moreover, the Louis Vuitton Foundation for Creation will soon open in Paris, in a building designed by Frank Gehry. He envisioned a glass cloud to house an exceptional art collection. It is a masterpiece gifted to Paris and to France.
What power do you attribute to clothing?
First, the power to make us feel good. But also the power to be the guardian of our memories. We all remember certain clothes our mothers wore, their perfume, their shoes, their bags.
Do you plan to create brands like H&M or Uniqlo, which would make fashion more accessible to everyone?
That’s not our goal at all. We want to pass on knowledge that is part of our heritage: the work of the leather craftsmen at the Vuitton workshops, the haute couture embroiderers at Dior. We manufacture in France; our workshops are in France.
“Talent has no nationality. But Paris is the world capital of fashion and must remain so.”
Freud said, “When one has been unquestionably one’s mother’s favorite child, one retains for life that conquering spirit and taste for success, which in reality rarely remain without leading to it.” In your case, can we replace the word “mother” with “father”?
I am not the favorite child. I have four brothers. Antoine works in the company, and the other three, Alexandre, Frédéric, and Jean, are still studying. We are fortunate to have a father who wants to teach us, to train us. Not everyone has that desire.
What are the reasons for this way of working?
Ask him! Most of the group’s brands are family businesses. At Vuitton, people have been working for six generations! At Dior, Moët & Chandon, and also Pucci and Berluti; our brands have family histories. My father is also very curious about young people; he wants to know what the new trends are: mobile phones, text messaging, the internet… My younger brothers have always worked on computers. I didn’t take my classes on a computer. Listening to his children allows him to understand the expectations of young people today, whatever the field.
What do you take after your mother?
A lot. I’m very close to my mother. She spoiled us but taught us the value of things, respect, even though we were very privileged, aware of our good fortune. We received a Northern upbringing from both our parents.
To exist alongside such a charismatic father, was it necessary to meet the man whom “L’Express” calls “The Master of the World”?
To live happily, live hidden! [Laughter.]
“Women are less assertive than men, and they shouldn’t be!”
People describe you as having a “reserved attitude.” Is it modesty, or shyness?
Shyness. Women are much less assertive than men, and they shouldn’t be!
Do you bring your sensitivity and femininity to the group?
I’m still learning a lot. There are four women on the LVMH board: Bernadette Chirac, Marie-Josée Kravis, Marie-Laure Sauty de Chalon, and myself. Many women buy our products, so it’s important to be able to see things from the consumer’s perspective.
Were you ever tempted to do something different from your father?
I started at McKinsey, an American consulting firm, because I wanted to have an experience outside the company. To be honest, every time I go to LA, I visit Frank Gehry’s studio and I think to myself that if I didn’t have another job, I would have loved to work in his studio. He’s an extraordinary person; he inspires me to be an architect. I work with creative people, but I’m not involved in the creative process. I went to business school, so I’m in management, but with a certain sensitivity…
Do you believe in destiny?
Yes and no. I’ve been very lucky, right from birth. After that, you have to know how to choose. For example, I could choose not to work; but, for me, that’s inconceivable. But I’m not fatalistic. I’m sure that you can change the course of your life and steer it in a positive direction.
What constitutes a successful life?
It’s quite a complicated question to answer. Having happy children, strong values, having accomplished something.
So you’re following in your father’s footsteps…
He instilled in us a love of a job well done, of hard work. That’s the education I received.
Your motto?
Minimal representation. The important thing is to showcase creativity. It’s thanks to the creators, to their vision, that we create styles and products. My father wrote a book called “Creative Passion” which perfectly sums up the group’s philosophy!