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The It-bags of yore, these “if you know, you know” handbags are subtle and devoid of logos. For celebrities who want to look effortlessly stylish, while not dressing to incite the attention of the world’s media, The Row has become a popular direction to take. There is nothing clickbait about this high luxury brand which was founded in 2006 by the Olsen twins who initially set out to create the perfect white T-shirt. “The whole exercise was to see whether, if something was made beautifully, in great fabric, with good fit, it would sell without a logo or a name on it,” the Olsens previously said to British Vogue, of their vision for their brand in the early Noughties. “And it worked.”

In the celebrity orbit where Birkins are used as a canvas for original paintings and toddlers carry logo-splattered clutches – this is a completely different type of It-bag, and is in many circles, considered a marker of refined taste (or a hefty bank balance). An Olsen twin sighting is now a rare occurrence, however whenever they are photographed, they always have a The Row handbag in one hand and a cigarette or black coffee in the other. A Margaux bag or N/S Park tote has become a shortcut for stylists looking to replicate their distinctive off-duty look. Zoë Kravitz and Jennifer Lawrence rarely leave their New York apartments without one, while luxury handbag collector, Hailey Bieber, has been favouring her black leather Idaho tote over her trusted Bottega Veneta Jodies in 2024 so far.

This level of celebrity endorsement could easily tip these handbags into overly-saturated trophy purchases, like so many other It-bags. However, the focus on simple, timeless designs, combined with the staggeringly high price points, has meant that they manage to rise above the trend cycle and are immune to the typical It-bag fatigue. Although the production of certain styles has been significantly reduced, they aren’t ever declared “over” in the same way as other trending bags can be ruthlessly discarded.

The Row handbags are the opposite of micro It-bags that barely house a credit card – these are created to be functional and hard-wearing, with clean lines, practical proportions and pocket placements. They are positioned as future heirlooms, with a focus on exquisite craftsmanship, which is no problem for the target customer for whom money is no object and won’t blink at a £5,000 tote bag.

The best The Row forever handbags:

The fascination with The Row handbags arguably kick-started with the Ascot evening bag, which was made from satin and had knotted handles, and was permanently attached to Zoë Kravitz’s wrist circa 2018. This style might have retired from the official roster, however you can still purchase it on vintage sites. Since then, significant styles include the Idaho, the Slouchy Banana and the Margaux.

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